I love ice cream. Not so much to indulge in; mainly, I just love making it. So imagine my dismay when my old ice cream maker gave up the ghost with a horrible grinding sound that put an end to any thoughts of repair. After a brief period of mourning, I hit the Internet. Hours later I’d found the perfect replacement. The only problem was it cost as much as the first used car I owned. It weighed about as much, too. But I’m a serious connoisseur when it comes to baking and, yes, ice cream making, so I took the plunge. A few days later, a monstrous package arrived in the mail and there I was with the equivalent of a Mercedes sedan parked on my kitchen counter.
Okay, now comes the good part. Was it worth it? Was the ice cream that issued forth from said machine as good as promised by the glowing Internet reviews? Yes, and then some. My husband declared the batch of chocolate gelato I made to be the best he’d ever tasted. And I have to agree. Smooth and creamy, and there wasn’t a drop of extra cream in it besides what was in the milk. I have Marcella Hazan, in part, to thank for that. The recipe is hers. But some of the credit also has to go to my new Lello Musso Lussino. I think I’m actually more excited by it than I would be by a new car. I don’t drive much, living in the city, but, as I said, I love ice cream. So next time I hear it purring away I’ll close my eyes and imagine I’m taking a trip to Italy, where I’ll soon dive into a bowl of yummy gelato.
What flavor will it be, I wonder?
Here’s a photo of the chocolate gelato, which my husband made short work of…
Chocolate Gelato
Makes about 1 quart
4 large egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons
2 cups whole milk, plus 3 tablespoons
½ cup dark chocolate, plus 2 tablespoons, roughly chopped
½ cup unsweetened cocoa
Place egg yolks and 2/3 cup of the sugar in a medium bowl and beat with a whisk until mixture is pale and creamy. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a medium saucepan until bubbles form around the edges and wisps of steam rise from the surface.
Whisk a little of the milk into the egg mixture. Slowly pour in the remaining milk, whisking as you go, until fully incorporated.
Bring a small saucepan with a couple of inches of water in it to boil. Lower heat to simmer and place over the saucepan a small heatproof bowl containing the chocolate. Let set, stirring occasionally, until melted. Scrape into the milk/egg mixture and whisk to combine. Whisk in the cocoa until there are no lumps.
Transfer the mixture to the saucepan in which the milk was heated. Stir constantly over lowest heat with a wooden spoon or spatula, taking care not to bring to a boil (this will cause it to curdle), until it thickens to a custard the consistency of pancake batter (165 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer). In a small pan combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar with 2 teaspoons water, and heat until it’s a deep golden color (watch carefully so you don’t burn it). Whisk into the custard.
Strain custard into a bowl. Nest in a larger bowl, partially filled with ice water, until cooled. Chill for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Freeze according to ice cream maker’s instructions.
Chocolate Gelato
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